Thursday 5 April 2012

Grey Corries and more...........before the snow - March/April 2012

Imagine, if you will, 7 days in which you only put your waterproofs on for 10 minutes.

In Scotland?

Before the World turned white.

Read on ..........

Corrour to Fort William 28 March - 3 April - NOT directly

This week was to be a good week, getting some serious hill walking in before the TGOC.
It turned out to be a fantastic week.

Day 1: Wednesday 28 March.

The train left me at Corrour station, in the middle of nowhere, at 1520. Time to do my first Munro of the day. Round on the track to Allt Luib Ruairdh, then on a faint Land rover track up to Garbh - bheinn. It was chilly but dry and the views were very good. There followed a superb high level stroll over Garbh - bheinn, Meall Garbh and on to Chno Dearg, my first Munro of the day.

The winds were pretty strong and gusty. It was getting late - I arrived at Chno Dearg at 1900.

To get shelter from the winds and to get a good source of water I headed down to Lochan Coire an Lochain, tucked below my next Munro, Stob Coire Sgriodain. The Coire was a good - ish shelter and I found a reasonable pitch for the night. It was 750m high.

That night was cold and the wind was gusting from time to time, but I was happy in the knowledge that my Trailstar could take it. I prepared a concoction of mash and sardines in a freeezer bag and washed this down with soup. Nice.

Day 2: Thursday 29 March

Next morning, after a warm and comfortable night's sleep, I woke up to a very misty morning.
It was a simple stroll up to the bealach and on to Stob Coire Sgriodain. It remained misty.

The route off and down to Fersit was notable in that there was very little in the way of a path for much of the way. The mist lifted as I got down lower. At Fersit I got wind of the weather forecast from a fellow backpacker who was resting there. Tomorrow was going to be good.
Ok, Grey Corries day!

Train to Fort William and Bank Street Hostel. Grog and Gruel.

Day 3 : Friday 30 March

Taxi to the end of Glen Nevis - £11.90.

Off at 0900 towards the Grey Corries. Cloud was around but lifting. The day was set fair and the Grey Corries were a wonder to wander over.

Stob Ban involved a rough stoney scramble over slidey stones. Then a gentle stroll down to the Leacach bothy for the night. Here, I shared the tiny bothy with four others, but there was room on the two platform bunks to sleep us all. Another freezer bag meal of pasta and tuna washed down with soup and followed by the water of life - whisky.

Day 4: Saturday 31 March

My plan was to pop over to Laggan hostel and come back over the two Munros over striding Loch Lochy.

So, back first to Glen Nevis campsite for the night.

Down towards Meannanach bothy in literaly 10 mins of rain. This started as I left the bothy and didn't look like going away, but, it did. This was my first and last time I had my waterproof on!

The ground underfoot was dry and the burns were pretty low, but there were still some very wet bits going through Glen Nevis and I still needed to do a Crocs crossing near Tom an Eite.

There's now a restaurant by Glen Nevis campsite and this saved a walk in to Fort William.

It was a still, cold night.

Day 5: Sunday 1 April

I took my time packing up and left the campsite at 1015.

The Great Glen Way is pretty boring until you get past Clunes, but it was easy going. I arrived at the Great Glen Hostel in Laggan at 1845, having booked a meal later on the Eagle barge.

I can heartily recommend the Eagle - the folk who run it, Janet and Paul are really good people. The restaurant bit seats around 15 - 20 I think, but I was the only diner that night.

Today was the first day of their season. Yesterday, they were closed.

Paul did me a Seafood fayre. Lobster, crab, mussels, razor clams, clams, whitebait, squid, langoustines and some I forget: all on a bed of rice and served with loads of veg. You are supposed to book a meal in advance - by 1600 - but Janet and Paul fitted me in for 2000.

Beer was good too. Sleep was easy.

I've booked my next meal there on Monday 14 May on the TGO. Seafood fayre! ............I like seafood.

Day 6 Monday 2 April

I looked out of the window to see rain.

By the time I left the hostel the rain had stopped.

The hills were shouded in mist and cloud.

By the time I got to Cam Bealach the cloud was starting to lift a little, but it clung like a limpet to Sron a Choire Gharbh and was icy cold. The grass was encased in ice.

Over the bealach the mist had lifted.

Up and over to Meall na Teanga. Here, the mist set in ..... and lifted from Sron a Choire Gharbh.

My original intention was to continue round the tops and come off Meall Odhar, reversing my intended route on the TGOC in May, but the mist and my uncertainty about coming down the steep looking side in in to Gleann Cia - aig decided my action.

Back down to the bealach and then down by the Allt  Cam Bhealaich and over to Fedden - an old ruin. From here a faint watery path, in places, led down to a bridge and eventually to the forested side of Gleann Cia - aig.

The side off Meall Odhar looked steep, but, do-able. Better going up than coming down, so my route in May will be ok.


"Do not proceed past this point - find an alternative route"

If you know Gleann Cia - aig, there is no alternative route down to Loch Arkaig.

I scrambled across thick layers of pine branches for about 400m until a machine operative informed me that the path was closed. Like I didn't know!

He was good, though. He explained that there was major forestry work taking place and mentioned some hydro work too. He didn't know when it would finish (14 May is not far away and this is my TGO route, coming up from Loch Arkaig!)

He directed me up through the forest for about 60 metres, where, thankfully, I hit the very end of the forest road. I had to walk down past 3 or 4 machines - the men saw me and stopped to let me by. It was well after 1700 and they were still working hard.

After what seemed like ages I reached the road. Over by the end of Loch Arkaig and on to Inver Mallie bothy. By the time i got there it had started to rain a bit. Not enough to draw out my waterproof. A cyclist had passed me earlier and Steve and I were the only ones at the bothy. What a big place. Three upstairs rooms and plenty of room downstairs. Steve told me that only in January he had been blown over while out with a climbing club group. He had badly damaged his back and collar bone - falling over 100m. The doctors had given him the ok to get out again, but he was feeling discomfort with his collar bone. Enough to warrant his decision to call in to the Belford the next day.

That night the wind blew and the rain/sleet/snow fell and then .........

Day 7: Tuesday 3 April

It snowed heavily overnight: almost down to loch level. It was bitter cold, but, remained dry for the walk back to Fort William. I was back at 1400 and had a MacDonalds (I was hungry!)

Bank Street Hostel and Grog and Gruel and curry. A good way to end an extraordinary week. Dry all week and 8 Munros.

The early morning news was of blizzards and mountain rescues and Aboyne - record highs to well below freezing in one week. Still I got to do the Grey Corries - before the snow. Nice.


  1. Sounds like a fantastic trip!

  2. Your Grey Corries day looked fabulous.

    It's back-to-normal weather up there now - all sh*t and bullets...
    But it will be glorious again come the Challenge!
    Trust me!

  3. good bit of weather for you.hope youve not used up your lot of good weather :) what with your up and coiming challenge..nice read

  4. Sweet trip Gordon.
    As long as you have not bagged all the good Scottish weather this year during those 7 days. :)
    The Grey Corries! What fantastic conditions and views.

    I need to retire!

  5. Some good hills you bagged there Gordon and good preparation for the big one. I hope the weather is ok for you. Would not want it to be too nice. It's meant to be a Challenge after all.

  6. It was a rare weather experience!

    And, this makes all the difference to a week in Scotland.

    I have my fingers and toes crossed for May!

    I'm down to less than 100 Munros to go: ok 99, but there's no rush - I prefer to see where I'm going and what I'm doing.

  7. Hi Gordon,
    Looks like you had a grand time and enjoyed some great weather.
    If I remember correctly, you are heading for the Minigaig-Tilt-Glenshee direction.
    There is a nice trip report in Scottish Hills today Glenshee-Loch nan Euan-Carn an Righ-Beinn Iutharn Mor and back. It will give you a good idea of the terrain and also shows that scenic camping spot at Loch nan Euan.
    Enjoy your crossing. Looking forward to your write up and pics.

  8. Hi Eddie,

    Thanks for pointing this report out to me.

    So that's what it looks like. Looks a little better around Loch nan Euan than when I passed that way. Those magic camp spots are great to see.

    I can only hope the weather is as good as it was for the Grey Corries.

    I'm determined to do a better write up of this year's TGO, and to put more pictures on it.