I asked for a beer and soup to start, but, they had run out of soup. Still the
beer went down well and I ordered a toasted sandwich. This turned out to be
very good and very filling. Two more beers went down. Ted and Jenny arrived
shortly after 1600 ( the Tea Room closed at 1630 - ish ). They were camping
further down the road towards Rannoch and just had a cake and tea. I treated
myself to cake and coffee and a whisky. All this went down very well.
I didn't see Ted and Jenny again until Montrose. I returned to my perfect
little camp area and was joined later by Lindy. Great to meet her again,
although we didn't talk much. I had a very good night's sleep.
Lindy was away quite early the next day.
DAY 5 LOCH LAIDON to BENALDER BOTHY Sunday 15 May
There is around a 9 km road walk before turning off the track towards Ben
Alder. This was a very peaceful walk and the track was good for most of
the way with great views. Shortly after the track reaches Loch Ericht it
deteriorates into a bogfest. It was not that easy to follow but cycle tyre
tracks in the boggy ground plus old wooden posts helped and Benalder bothy
soon came into view.
It was too windy to camp outside. Inside there are two big rooms and one
small room with two bunk beds. Nobody else was there and I had the bottom
bunk.
The bothy is well maintained and I even had a solar light - that is left
in the window for people to use. I made myself comfortable and then, after
a couple of short walks outside, prepared my meal for the night. Before
setting out this year I decided to cut down on the food I was carrying.
One less packet of cup-a-soup and no custard powder. I really missed the
custard powder and was craving it all the way ovet to Montrose.
Anyway, I ate well and listened to music before getting to bed just after
2200. Then I heard voices. Benalder is supposedly haunted. It turned out
to be a group of 4 who had come over from Dalwhinnie via Ben Alder. I
popped out to say hello and they were soon fed and in bed. Thankfully,
they were too tired to stay up late and all slept well.
DAY 6 BENALDER BOTHY Monday 16 May
The day was meant to be Ben Alder and Beinn Bheoil. The weather was not
playing ball. It was wet and windy with poor visibility up high. I had
been up both these Munros before and the thought of going up in poor
weather was not appealing. My FWA was to go to Culra Bothy to camp there.
Or, I could stay for the day in the bothy. No wind or rain to contend
with. And, it was easy to get to Dalwhinnie in a day. Decision made. It is
surprising how easy it is to pass the time in a remote bothy.
In the morning two figures approached from the way I had arrived at the
bothy. They were Cathy and Pat - both on the Challenge. They stopped for a
brew and then were on their way up and over the bealach. No one else
appeared until late afternoon when a guy on his bike turned up. Can't
remember his name. He took the big room with the sleeping platform and we
hardly spoke while he was there. I had my whisky nightcap after my meal
and enjoyed another good night's sleep.
DAY 7 BENALDER BOTHY to DALWHINNIE Tuesday 17 May
My cycle companion had warned me that he was an early riser. However, I
was up well before he left. I took my time getting packed up. I saw him
disappear in the distance as I started off on the well made path up to
Bealach Cumhann. This was the only day on the Challenge that I put on a
pair of liner gloves, for about 10 minutes. It was not cold on any of the
days. The day was fine and progress was quick and easy. I continued round
to Bealach Dubh where I met Douglas - a Challenger as well as quite a few
backpackers going towards Corrour. Culra bothy had been closed because of
asbestos, but, I heard that someone had stayed there the night
before.
I passed the bothy and got onto the track which goes by Loch Ericht. It
was too late in the day to include The Fara - which was a great walk back
in 2019. The railway crossing at Dalwhinnie was closed to hillwalkers, but the
alternative was an easy detour to go under the railway and come out near
the petrol station. The Loch Ericht Hotel was open and there were a number
of other Challenge folk in there.
I had a beef roll and a beer and was preparing to leave for my camp spot
by Loch Cuaich when I picked up on the fact that the hotel was happy for
Challengers to camp by the hotel on quite a fair sized piece of ground. I
think 7 tents were pitched there in total. I got a good level spot and
soon had everything set up for the night. Can't remember exactly when,
but, the weather changed to rain and strong, blustery winds which hammered
the tents. There were two guys camped by me in solid geodesic tents:
heavy, considering they were going for 50 Munros on the Challenge. My
X-mid was rock solid. A good meal and a few pints had me sleeping well
through the wet windy night.
DAY 8 DALWHINNIE TO KINGUSSIE Wednesday 18 May
The Hotel did a good cooked breakfast and I was soon on my way by the
viaduct to Loch Cuaich. A good track led from the Loch all the way to
Phones. It was a warm sunny day and I had a Buff sun visor on to stop my
nose from burning. Only thing is it heats up your head. My nose got
burnt.
At phones there is more of a path that follows the old General Wades road.
This eventually leads onto the main road, leaving a few hundred metres of
traffic blasting by before dropping down to the minor road leading towards
Ruthven. The walk into Kingussie is short from here and I soon checked
into the Silverfjord Hotel.
First task was the local Co-op for Cup-a-Soup and Birds Custard powder.
They didn't have any. My only post on parcel had a couple of packets of
dehydrated meals and coffee. Got back to my room to realise I forgot the
whisky. This goes into 100 ml plastic bottles - and depending how I feel
last me one or two nights. They only had half bottles of blended whisky,
but this would do. Kingussie has changed: no Tipsy Laird and one or two
other closures. I checked out the Gordon Hotel and found that they did
meals: set up for the evening.
Back in my room I was about to get ready for a shower when there was a
knock on my door. It was Mike @peakrambler who I knew on Twitter, but, had
never met. We half arranged to meet in the Gordon Hotel later.
Getting ready for the shower I noticed a small blister under one of my
toes. Didn't even notice it when walking. I popped it, put a small plaster
on it and forgot about it. I don't normally do blisters ( except for one
Challenge when the bottoms of my feet turned to a white mush - I still
finished )
I met Harry, the oldest Challenger and Rob, again. Rob had a room in the
Loch Ericht bunkhouse overlooking my tent. The bar meal was good and Mike
joined me for a drink ( non-alcoholic ). Rob and Harry were in the Hotel
and eating in the main dining room.
That night Rangers were playing in the European Cup final and back in the
Siverfjord, there was a small crowd of locals, plus 2/3 Germans. Rob
joined me later to watch the proceedings. I left for bed before the final
result. Rangers lost a close match.
DAY 9 KINGUSSIE to RUIGH-AITEACHAIN BOTHY Thursday 19 May
The Silverfjord did me a very good breakfast and when I apologised for not
doing the bacon justice I got the obvious reply - I could have asked for
it well done! ( Not to be forgotten ).
Another dry warm day and the road walk to Tromie Bridge past Ruthven
Barracks was very pleasant. In fact there were a couple of cycle paths to
divert walkers off the road. There were a couple of Challenge folk by the
bridge, but, I can't remember their names. We kept passing and repassing
each other on the way over to Baileguish where the old ruins made a good
venue for a lunch break. Off with trail shoes and a great spot to enjoy
chocolate and biscuits.
From here the route over to Glen Feshie was pretty straight-forward. The (
I think Danish ) landowner had invested a good deal of money into the Glen
and the paths heading up river had been improved since I last came this
way. Even the landslip section was less tricky than on previous times.
There was one bit that was very close to the river and this did need some
care, but, was avoidable. Landrovers get all the way up to and beyond the
bothy.
The bothy was even better than before and Lindsay, the bothy manager, who stayed there too,
was very welcoming.
He made me real coffee and offered a variety of teas to Jenny - also on
the Challenge. I met Craig again and I enjoyed a good chat with him
and John. Heidi, who I had met a few times also enjoyed the hospitality.
Lindsay was a real character and fascinating to listen too. Later, Louise
arrived - big hugs and Emma - equally big hugs. At one point Lindsay
was handing out bottles of beer - amazing! Quite a few had decided to stay
in the bothy, but, John, Craig and I camped outside.
I did decide to have my meal in the bothy. There were 2 or 3 kettles on
the hot stove, but when I used some " hot " water to do my cup-a-soup it
wasn't warm enough. I fetched my little stove to make sure the water for
my main meal was boiling.
After some good conversations I retired to my tent, with music and
whisky. As usual, I slept well.
DAY 10 RUIGH-AITEACHAIN BOTHY TO CHEST OF DEE Friday 20 May
The initial walking through Glen Feshie is magnificent. Today it was dry
and I enjoyed the walk.
Photos don't do justice to the scenery. It is wide open country
approaching Geldie Burn.
People who have been this way will remember the old Red House which you
could shelter in, even though it was " dangerous ". It was so good to see
the MBA working on restoring the building for future use as a bothy. I had a
chat with one on the MBA volunteers and they had every reason to be proud
of the work that they were putting into the building.
Shortly afterwards, I turned off the track to one of my favourite camp
spots in the Chest of Dee.
I pitched first before a walk down to the Dee. Here the water was more
lively than the Geldie Burn.
I was looking forward to seeing a herd of deer wander around on the open
ground, but a night of rain prevented this. I don't know if the deer
appeared or not. There is something very comforting about camping when
it's raining: especially as there was hardly any wind, and no midges.
DAY 11 CHEST OF DEE to BRAEMAR Saturday 21 May
Another dry day. I decided to call in on Mar Lodge for coffee and
biscuits, but when I got there, the usual place was closed off. I was
about to leave the estate when a fellow Challenger explained where the tea
and coffee etc were being served - in the Stables block. I was in no rush
so headed there. A good number of Challenge folk had passed through here
and they had signed a white-board to say when. Ian was there along with
the 50 Munro guys and Cathy and Pat. It was great to meet Tim again and
too many others to name.
On the way into Braemar I rang the Youth Hostel to ask that I have a lower
bunk in the dorm. A sleepless night on a top bunk in Mallaig had put me
off top bunks.
Sure enough I got my bottom bunk. In fact I had a choice of any one
in the room as I was first there. Surprisingly, the dorm wasn't full and I
had no one above me.
I met Martin outside the Bothy. We had a brief chat but I joined the queue
for food in the Bothy. I left my pack by a table and it took ages to be
served. But, it was worth it. I had an open toasted sandwich and a bottle
of beer. Just as I was about to leave, Rob joined me and we had a couple
of cups of coffee as we chatted. He explained that he had booked a table
for 4 at Farquarsons but that there was a spare place available if I
wanted to join them.
After checking in to the Hostel and a shower. Rob and I headed for
Farquarsons when we met Carl and Gabriella. A very brief chat established
that they had started the Challenge but had to pull out. Rob was concerned
that we were keeping our meal companions waiting - they were German.
Turned out they were Michael Friebe and his son Daniel. Michael was on the
Challenge and Daniel had travelled over to join him for the end part of
the Challenge. Michael had been in Scotland many times and had a house on
Knoydart. Daniel had worked as a ghillie and suffice to say they were very
interesting company. The meal was very good and we all enjoyed a great
evening. The hostel was too warm but I slept reasonably well despite this.
DAY 12 BRAEMAR to BALLATER Sunday 22 May
Today it was salmon
sandwiches and coffee in Balmoral followed by the endless minor road into
Ballater. The weather remained good and the welcome at the campsite made
up for the road walking.
I was soon pitching near a couple of tents which turned out to be Frederic
and Colin. Colin I knew from Twitter, but had never met. I had met
Frederic on his first Challenge when his feet were a real mess. How he
made it across to the East coast that time still amazes me. This was his
7th Challenge - and his feet were in good condition. A few other Challenge
folk had booked in for an Indian curry and I suggested to Frederic and
Colin that we go to the same place. Frederic and I had a couple of pints
in the Alexander and made our way round to the curry house - which was an
Italian restaurant! The Inn on the Green was no more.
I hadn't come across the Lochnagar Restaurant before. Frederic and I made
our way there and it was very busy. After a short wait we were shown to a
table having explained that we were expecting one more. Time went by and
we had just placed our meal order when Colin turned up - at a nearby
table. Slight confusion. However, he hadn't noticed us and joined us at
our table. We chatted away, before, during and after the meal.
The food was not the usual curry house fare. It was much better. I had a
dish of monkfish and prawns which was superb. The others equally enjoyed
their meals. The Cobra beer was good too. Much better venue than the Inn
on the Green.
DAY 13 BALLATER to TARFSIDE Monday 23 May
I was up reasonably early. I left by myself on the " trade route " over to
Tarfside. On the road before I turned off and just before the road to Glen
Muick a car stopped to offer me a lift up Glen Muick. I thanked him and
explained my walk. He wished me well and was on his way. The way over to
Glen Tanar is acctually very scenic and photos don't do it justice. It was
fascinating watching showers fall in distant glens while walking in the
dry.
The showers were setting off all around and the sheets of rain were
visible for miles. After lunch in Glen Tanar, by the bridge I made my way
up Mt Keen. The track turns into a well built path that goes virtually to
the top and made progress easy. I stopped at one point near the summit to
phone Challenge Control and explain my change of planned route to the
coast. After the meal in Ballater, I wanted to enjoy the social side of
the Challenge as much as possible. The rain was all around as I neared
Queen's Well and I evenually stopped to put on my waterproofs. These were
on for no more than 10 minutes and it stayed dry over me. Rain was still
sheeting down in the other glens.
I reached the Tarfside camping area to find only 2 or 3 tents there.
St Drosten's was open but I decided to pitch first in case it did start to
rain. I popped in to be greated by Ann and Alvar and Gus who were
volunteering at the retreat. Mark had a great smelling bacon sandwich and
I decided that I too would like one - having initially said I was OK for
food. I had it well done and it was delicious. Martin appeared as well as
Andrew - both were staying in St Drostens.
News was that the Masons would be closed this yeat. But, it was going to
open that night especially for Challenge folk! And there was to be a BBQ.
What a great evening! Around 25 of us sat outside with beers and burgers
having great conversations. When it became cooler some, but, not all,
moved inside. You need to experience the Masons to appreciate the great
hospitality and the meeting together of fellow Challenge folk.
Without going OTT I went back to my tent for a good night's sleep. More
tents had arrived during the evening.
DAY 14 TARFSIDE to NORTH WATER BRIDGE Tuesday 24 May
Not my original route plan. The walk to NWB is really not that bad: along the road and then by tracks that eventually lead to a minor road before cutting off on a path-ish that goes off road to the outskirts of Edzell. I was looking forward to a good lunch and a couple of pints in the Panmuir. But, it was closed. The Tuck Inn was closed. Then I noticed a small group of Challenge folk outside Sinclair's Larder. Salvation. I had a coffee followed by a superb open toasted sandwich. It has an Italian name that I can't remember.
We sat around chatting for a good while. Eventually Martin, Andrew, Carl and Gabriella joined us. Carl was a real gent: he was now driving around meeting folk and offered to transport the beer etc that folk wanted to NWB campsite. Four cans of beer made their way in style. There had been a few brief showers in Edzell and these continued after folk arrived at NWB. A few sat out during the rain, but, I was in and out of my tent trying to keep dry while preparing my food. NWB wasn't to be like on previous dry evenings and most of us retired to our tents early.
DAY 15 NORTH WATER BRIDGE TO KINNABER LINKS Wednesday 25 May
I set off by myself for the walk to the coast. The day was dry and the road walk wasn't too bad. Near to the coast is " Strawberry Cottage " which was a " must " to visit. I didn't know that Charleton Farm was " Strawberry Cottage " and even after getting a friendly greeting by some of the people working outside there, I decided to walk on looking for " Strawberry Cottage ". Of course, I saw many photos of the strawberry delights that were served up there.
The tide was high and I dipped my feet in the sea. The end of my 10th TGO Challenge: except for the walk into Montrose: a couple of miles.
I must admit, it didn't feel like a great occasion. I had a good time getting across, even though I was a bit anxious before the start. I had done plenty of walking prior to the Challenge and was backpacking fit. I made it.
I checked in to the Links before making my way to Challenge Control. I checked in and said hellos to a good number of folk. Then I came back and had a shower before setting off for a couple of pasties and then the pub on the High Street. Here I met Dave Skipp, Dave and Adrian. Later Douglas arrived. 3 pints and good conversation later I made my way back to the Links.
I popped into the Park bar around 1800 and it was great to see a fair number of Challenge folk in there. I got chatting to Bernie and Jeff for a while. Ted and Jenny said hello and Croydon and Tracy " Croydon junior " also said hello. Many others, of course, but, I'm useless at names. The dinner call had us in at around 1915.
There were less in the room for dinner: because of the staggered start. Sue said a few words about the first timers etc and before I knew it I was being announced as No: 10. Usually, there are a few doing their 10th or 20th even. But, this night there was just me. Nowhere to hide. Sue gave me my plaque - I gave her a hug - and thankfully, it was over very quickly.
I must admit, I'm not a fan of Prosecco and managed to share it out. I did tease Sue about the lack of whisky, which used to be presented to those who did 10 or 20.
I'm not the best at farewells and left the room after the meal to go back to my room in the Links.
Next day: home on the TGO Express. 1033 to London, although I got off at York before X-country to Tamworth.
Thanks to Sue and Ali for running this great event. My thanks to those I met. Equally, my apologies for not including all the names of people I met. There were a good number who I had long chats to and they helped to make the Challenge what it is: a great event.
Oh, and thanks to my wife, Barbara, who enabled me to do this.
Now, what about 2023?
